The first week of July I got an email from a podcast listener named Elizabeth.
Hi Abby,
I listen to your podcast regularly and I wondered if anyone has addressed yet how the tariffs are going to affect small craft businesses and fabric manufacturers that print their fabric overseas? I haven’t really seen anything in the news.
I hit reply and said I was sorry, but I really didn’t know anything about the issue. But then I got another email from a blog reader asking if I planned to write about the tariffs. A few weeks later InTown Quilters posted about the tariffs on their Facebook page and several people sent me the link.
Kristin and I have been working to introduce larger corporations to Craft Industry Alliance and while talking with them tariffs have come up and they’ve asked if we’d be covering the issue.
So last week I paused to think things through. I know very little about international trade. Economic policy is incredibly complex and I know just enough to realize how little I truly understand. We are also living in a politically charged climate in which any suggestion that a particular policy is or isn’t wise will likely provoke heated comments and even personal attacks. This is really tricky.
At the same time, perhaps more than anything else I’ve experienced in the 13 years I’ve been involved in the crafts industry, these tariffs will have a huge impact on our day to day lives. Almost every supply we use is about to become 25% more expensive and it’s going to happen in just a few weeks.
That’s when one line in Elizabeth’s email really struck me. “I haven’t seen anything in the news.” Here’s the thing. The mainstream press doesn’t cover the crafts industry. Or at least it almost never does. Etsy makes the New York Times every now and then, but for the most part what qualifies as a major story in quilting or knitting is totally overlooked by most news publications. Creating a space for those stories is a big part of what drives me, and was a huge motivator for founding Craft Industry Alliance.
So do I shrink back because this story feels big and hard? Or walk towards it and trust that I can figure it out, knowing that we deserve the same level of analysis that the furniture industry and the auto industry is getting? I began making calls.
What’s been interesting is how willing the leadership of major craft corporations has been to talk about this issue with me and how generous people have been with their time. I spent most of last week on the phone and when I wasn’t on the phone I was reading and listening to podcasts about tariffs. I found a professor at Johns Hopkins (my alma mater) who specializes in how U.S. manufacturing has been affected by international trade with China since 2000 and he explained the bigger issues. I’ve learned a lot.
Meanwhile, JOANN’s sent this email out to consumers yesterday. Maybe you saw it? Their stores will be significantly affected by the tariffs and it will likely happen just before Halloween, their major shopping season. Judging by the comments on their Facebook post, the reaction to their plea for help hasn’t been positive.
All of this is to say, I’m working on it. It’s a lot. I’m going to try to do a good job. I’m expecting it won’t be easy, both to write it and to deal with the comments in such a politically charged climate, but I think its important so here we go.
Wow. I just read some of the comments on Joann’s Facebook page. Most of them were so uninformed. “I’ll just go to Habby Lobby” or other nonsense. I do think Joann’s approach was slightly off with their “made in USA” label or whatever it was. I read their email and was slightly confused at first. Perhaps they could have explained it better. But the knee jerk reactions were so wrong, and obviously missed the point completely. These consumers seem to think it is only Joann’s pushing some political agenda, rather than trying to educate the consumer on a topic that will cost them dearly in the very near future on many fronts. They won’t be able to avoid it by going to Walmart or Hobby Lobby or The Fabric Shack. Criticiczing Joann’s for bringing the very real issue to their attention is a sad commentary on our reactionary society. I applaud your efforts to delve more deeply into this issue and look forward to your future articles. Thank you for once again tackling the tough and important topics.
I completely agree with you Cathy. I was also confused by JoAnn’s “Made in America Tax” angle. But you’re right – everyone who reacted so strongly doesn’t realize what’s coming. I’m worried about it too.
Cathy, I also agree with you. JoAnn’s totally missed the mark. It took me several reads to figure out what they were trying to say as most of their products are made in China. I am concerned for all the people who are employed making products that are “made in the USA” from parts made elsewhere. This includes those working at appliance manufacturers and auto makers as well as professional crafters.
I agree with you all! The Joann’s article was very poorly written, but, bless their heart, they made some attempt to take a stab at the issue. In fact the article was kind of crazy! Abby has done a much better job of writing this out. I think we are all “unprepared” for the implications of this in our daily lives. And, there will be no place to run and hide once this falls into place. (I actually read one woman’s comment that she didn’t want to have any political comments cluttering up her “happy crafting space!” Well, her “happy place” is about ready to fall down around her ears!) I am 72 and I am cleaning and reorganizing my sewing room. Need I say more? I am set for life!
I kind of have a question, if the product is “made” by an American company, let’s say Singer (is it even am American company anymore? But, you get my point!), but the actual product is made in China, will it still be affected?
Best wishes to us all!
Thank you Abby, we need journalists who seek out and tell the truth.
I feel like Joann’s really messed up in how they presented the tariff information, by using the “Made in America” statement. The tariffs are a reality and it’s going to impact all of us in a big way, no matter what our occupation. I was just commenting to a friend of mine a couple of weeks ago, when I was in the process of purging huge amounts of quilt fabric to a charity group, that I should probably be hanging on to every single bit of it as the price per yard is going to start shooting up substantially.
My feelings are that Joann’s should work on tidying up their stores, have legitimate coupons, and improve their customer service! Those are the reasons I do not go there!
Thank you Abby for all of the work you put into giving us the “real story!”
I was also quite confused by JoAnn’s email “Made in America.” It took careful reading to figure it out…and since most people’s online attention span is milli-seconds, I can see how problems arose.
If you look at just about anything you buy in a major craft store, “made in China” is the name of the game. No avoiding that, and therefore the tariffs. The big industry/name corps (auto, tech?) will probably be able to finagle exemptions, so it’s the little guys who will, as usual, pay the brunt.
I’m feeling lucky because for years now I have been getting almost all my crafting supplies second hand.
These days we too often settle for being half-informed. I confess that I, too, have followed the tariff effect in reports on the steel/aluminum industries, not thinking further down the line to fabric and notions. In a way it’s helpful that Joann’s sent their message to forestall, somewhat, the hollering when prices go up as the tariff settles in. The price hikes will affect not only chain stores but also independent fabric/yarn/needlecraft shops. I appreciate your reporting, Abby, and look forward to updates.
Thanks, Abby. As a retired investment manager with three degrees in finance and economics, I’m usually pretty tuned into economic issues. But the summer has been busy (son’s wedding, etc.) and the political news is always crazy and distracting, and in truth I haven’t thought of this concern at all. I appreciate your leadership in looking into it. Also thanks to the readers who’ve encouraged you to do so, and the sources who help illuminate the issue. I’ll look forward to reading more.
Abby, Sincere thanks for your research and willingness to wade in on this issue. It’s not just the fabric and supplies that will be affected, but sewing machines. The dealers have been told to expect a 25% increase in their prices for new machines, which will definitely be passed along to us as the end consumers. I found a list of all of the imported goods, and textile machinery and everything related to needlework of any kind will be affected. https://www.theorganicprepper.com/tariff-war-will-these-items/ so I guess we should be prepared. This isn’t a time to be short-sighted.
As a result of American imposed tariffs on Canadian softwood, Americans are currently paying more for new housing, because the wood required to build them costs more. There is an American housing boom because of rebuilding efforts after hurricanes and other natural disasters, and not enough American softwood available, so Canadian softwood imports are absolutely necessary. It is the purchasers of these new homes who must pay the extra price. Meanwhile, Canadian softwood suppliers are seeing little to no effect of these tariffs on their business because their product is in such high demand. This is an example of the tariff war that Trump is waging. Americans need to be much more aware of the impacts of the Made in America slogan. Wow, those comments on the Joann’s page are a real eye-opener to this Canadian reader. One sees the depth of support for the current American administration, and the unwillingness to think deeply about current trade policies. We need your help here Abby. Yes, it is complicated, but everyone needs to better understand these things in a global economy. Especially those of us who want to better support makers, wherever they may live.
Thanks for researching this!
We sell items made both overseas and in the USA. Our inventory includes hundreds of knitting needles SKUs (made with stainless steel, bamboo, wood), which are manufactured in China. The knitting needles — and as far as I know the other items we sell — haven’t been affected by the tariffs yet, but they might be affected by the next round of tariffs — coming soon as I understand it.
Thank you for looking into this. I very much look forward to reading about it!
Thank you Abby – we appreciate your dedication to providing us with much needed information on how the tariffs will impact the crafting community. Wishing you good luck and thick skin!
I will also add my thanks to your attempt to sort this out. I think Joann’s was trying to make a point, although it was not clear. Sadly many people forget that we, countries and economies are tied together. I was on vacation in Canada and was interested to hear what people were saying. The “American dollar” was worth more than the Canadian. When I stayed at places, I left a larger tip as a way to compensate. I also purchase some wonderful fibers and discovered the Canadians were familiar with local businesses in my area who were doing similar things. They had shared back and forth about processes, dyeing mixtures and so one. There was no economic exchange; however the continuing belief of sharing to benefit many was very evident.
Sadly I am concerned in the effect that governmental decisions or Tweets will have. I do not think the price increase will stop me from purchasing materials. I will also be more aware of what I have. I have no intention of hoarding-except for a few absolutely wonderful fabrics that I cannot bear to cut into! To make the craft industry strong, money, ideas and support needs to continue to circulate. Closing off something will cause suffocation. This was bit longer than I realized. Just wanted to say that we can make choices. I will chose to continue the goodness of crafting, buying, selling and sharing.
Abby, I’m so glad you’re looking into this issue for us! When I got that email from JoAnn’s, I skimmed over it but then hit delete. We’re so jaded about the real agendas of big corporations who claim to be just looking out for consumers… Part of me feels like making those imported supplies more expensive is a necessary growing pain in order to bring back some of those lost industries to the United States — I’m writing this from North Carolina, in the heart of what used to be the cotton-producing, textile manufacturing center of the country. Not anymore, because American companies couldn’t compete with those cheap imports from countries whose workers don’t have our labor protection laws and benefits. I wish I could buy cotton quilting fabrics, cotton threads and embroidery flosses, and cotton battings that were all grown, processed, and printed right here in the Carolinas. It would be like the Farm To Table concept for the craft industry! I know there will be a lot more products affected by the tarriffs, though, besides just cotton, and it’s not like those cotton farms and textile mills are going to spring back into existence in time for this year’s holiday season! You know, when I was learning history in school I was often frustrated by how slowly progress happens in this country due to our democratic republic with its checks and balances, and the time it takes to change public opinion enough that our laws and policies would reflect new ideas. But since the last Presidential election, we’ve seen what a wild ride it can be for families as well as for businesses when longstanding government policies flip-flop back and forth every time you pick up a newspaper!
You know, you hit on the part of this problem that I spend time thinking about as well. Our dependence on impossibly cheap products has damaged this country, especially agriculture. I think we’ve been spoiled by dollar stores and disposable clothing. Whole communities have been sacrificed for lower prices. None of us would have the stashes we have if they didn’t have $1/yard fabric readily available. You just can’t pass up deals like that.
Anne, I’m really glad you’re looking into this. It will affect all of us in one way or another, but personally I hope we learn how dangerous is is to love bargains more than people’s livelihoods.
Excellent comment!
I love this perspective!
My first thought also! Their email just doesn’t read as genuine to me considering they are included in the group of bigger corporations responsible for killing other small local businesses with their cheap imports and low prices. Definitely interested in reading more on the topic and seeing how things unfold.
As an Etsy seller in Australia this will effect me too as about one third of my orders are from the US. Looking forward to reading your upcoming article.
By now perhaps you’ve seen this post by Quartz.
https://qz.com/1365978/the-all-american-pastime-of-quilting-is-being-tucked-into-the-trade-war/
Oh, thank you. This is good to see.
Thanks Abby. The whole thing has me baffled, and Joann’s position on this has me more confused. CEO Soltau will testify tomorrow. Here is a piece from Bloomberg News: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2018-08-21/retailer-joann-calls-on-crafters-to-oppose-trump-s-tariffs
Has any research been done on fabric and tools coming from other areas such as Bali batiks, European made machines (inside and outside of the EU), Japanese fabric and notions, South Korean fabrics etc?
My post on this issue, linking back to you:
https://catbirdquilts.wordpress.com/2018/08/23/tariffs-and-the-cost-of-quilting/
Let me know if you have any questions or comments. Thanks again.
Good to know that you are on the case as a journalist, Abby. Tariff impact information from a craft business perspective will be a game -hanger. Yes, the issue is complicated, but the public and business owners will be better equipped to respond when they know the implications. As always, you’re making this world a saner place and I’m looking forward to your pieces on this important issue.
Thanks for your advocacy Abby.
Dharma Trading has also given customers notice that due to the tariffs textile prices will be going up when current stock is exhausted.
I spin , weave, and do most of the crafts associated with what I make doing those two. I’ll tell you straight out, the vast majority of our superwash wool comes from China as does most of our hemp fiber, most of our linen and a great deal of our flax fiber comes from Europe. Almost all of our silk comes from China, and the US production of cotton has been going down for some time now.
I live on a small farm and we are looking at how to produce at least a small quantity of some textiles. A single acre of flax yields a great deal of fiber, but is a serious depletion on the soil. Cotton can be grown in the north (start it with the tomatoes) but you have the same problem as flax in that it is hard on the soil. I imagine they will eventually get around to legalizing industrial hemp (not at all the same as the garbage people smoke), but until then there is no textile crop that can be alternated with either of the two main ones to improve the soil in their wake. This makes growing the cellulose fibers a bit complicated. They are a good bit of really hard work too.
Thank you for investigating this. I live in Europe, but I might be affected by that too. Here we pay more than twice the american price for a yard of quilting cotton. I wonder if by sending their products directly from Asia to Europe, the quilting fabric companies could bypass the tariffs -and I’m not sure it’s worth it as the european quilting market doesn’t seem that big-. If not, the price would be too high, and I fear I’ll have to stop buying quilting fabric, or restricting me greatly (more than I already do).
I am a fabric importer (never from China). First we should all remember; and have been able to see from all the news stories trading is an economic balance, trading of goods & services has gone on for hundreds, if not thousands of years. I have something you want, you have something I want, we trade. That said, so far fabric is NOT included in the trade wars of imports from China, nor are fabrics other countries. Handmade/loomed fabrics I do not know about, but seriously doubt handmade/loomed fabrics would be targeted. Even if you bring back fabric producing to USA; and it is still produced here; it is not the labor intensive business it once was. Today only a handful of people are required in a mill to make fabric which was once employing hundreds. Do not think bringing fabric production to USA will employee a lot of people. Garment production is highly labor intensive though, fabric mills maybe follow garment manufacturers offshore for quicker lead time , delivery of fabric to sewing facility. Another problem with USA fabric producers, previously they required huge minimums. Very risky for the buyer if the fabric didn’t sell. Offshore mills where willing to work with buyers, offer lower minimums, enabling the buyer to test the product in the market before committing to larger quantities. USA mills were very slow to adopt to the lower minimums, putting themselves out of business. BUT I still believe trading with others is good for everyone.
Abby,
Thank you for keeping me abreast of all the happenings in the craft community. I am always delighted when I see email from you in my inbox. Thank you for your time and efforts investigating this complex subject. I thought JoAnn’s did a good job of highlighting something that will affect ALL of us and offered an easy way to let my legislators know my thoughts on the matter. We live in an incredible country where we have the right to petition and have our voices heard! If we don’t come together, educate ourselves and speak up for what we want our leaders to do, we have no right to complain when things change and prices go up. JoAnn’s may not have fully thought through their verbiage, but at least they were willing to TRY addressing the issue and allowing us to help impact our future.
Again, thank you for always providing interesting and educational content. Knowledge is power.
Warm regards,
Ruth L
Yep the comments from the ill informed are completely off the map. I shared the Joanns Petition…. informaiton on a few FB Groups I belong to… and there wasn’t anything political…. in my statement or the Joann plea, but many took it as political and turned it into politics. I removed my post on one group, it was removed on 2! So many think that the tariffs will fix the problem, but until US manufacturers are will to pay more for manufacturing…. and stop agreeing to Chinas demands for intellectual/patented secrets, in order to manufacture cheaply, then the tariffs are not going to help in the long run, except mess up our economy and the way we live. The whole confusion over the ‘made in America’ aspect is also filled uneducated nonsense. Take fabric for instance. We grow the cotton in the US, but then we ship it to China for spinning and milling into cloth, (greige goods). It is then printed, mostly overseas, and then shipped back here….
I JUST DON”T GET IT!!!
I am looking forward to your exploration of the issue. I think it will be eyeopening for some!
Good LUCK.
Thank you, Abby, for launching further discussion of the tariffs and the craft business. I look forward to hearing more about what the tariffs will actually impact. Thank you, too, to all the folks who have replied for their well thought out responses. It is so nice to read what you are thinking without any of the political rhetoric. Appreciate the links to various other articles.